AMA - Equipment
Equipment
It is critical that the Shishapangma 2007 expedition team is suitably equipped for their objective so that they’re protected against the high altitude (HA) and extreme weather conditions. In addition, the right equipment will help team members overcome any technical climbing difficulties that may be encountered.
Organising the necessary equipment has been a huge task. There have been literally thousands of items of equipment collated by expedition members. They have worked tirelessly to ensure that the right kit is on-hand as and when required by the teams.
All of the equipment is sent to the starting point in Kathmandu . From there, it is closely monitored and moved forward to be used by the teams. Below is a list of just some of the items that will be used:
Climbing Hardware
Climbing hardware refers to a vast range of personal and team items. Personal equipment, such as crampons (worn on the boots) and ice tools will be used to aid climbing the snow and ice. Team equipment, such as karabiners, rock anchors, ice screws and snow stakes, will be used in conjunction with rope to safeguard and protect the movement of climbers up and down the mountain.
Climbing Helmet
Protecting the head from falling debris such as rock, snow and ice is essential. Climbers will wear their choice of helmet but all models will give them the necessary protection.
Climbing Rope
Rope is a key component for safe travel on the mountain. Several different types will be used, varying in both diameter and length. The majority of rope taken will be 'fixed' on various parts of the climbing route. This means that it will be anchored to the rock or snow and ice and left in place to facilitate repeated movement both up and down the route. Careful selection and use of the rope is needed. The type used for SP07 will have a well-balanced combination of strength, durability and lightweight properties.
Down insulation
This encompasses a wide variety of lightweight down clothing articles, such as full suits, jackets, mittens, bootees and sleeping bags. This sort of clothing provides the maximum amount of warmth and protection against the extreme cold. Full down suits will be worn while climbing on the upper reaches of the mountain. It is here that team members need to be fully protected against the bitter extremes of mountain weather. Sleeping bags are rated for use down to temperatures as low as -40°C.
Eye Protection
To avoid snow blindness, it is vital to protect the eyes from the high-intensity ultraviolet rays experienced at altitude. In good weather, full-band sunglasses will be worn but in more adverse conditions, these will be replaced by goggles.
Gloves/mittens
Along with toes, fingers are extremely susceptible to frostbite. It is essential that the hands are kept warm for both comfort and progress on the mountain. If this does not happen then even the most basic of tasks cannot be performed. Being able to move fingers and hands when wearing gloves and mittens is important so that complex and technical tasks such as rope and anchor fixing can be undertaken.
Mountain Tents
On the mountain, four camps will be established and tents will provide the shelter. These range from the more heavy-duty and spacious variety for Base Camp, to the more compact and lightweight tents to be used in the higher camps. They need to be able to withstand the constant ferocity of Himalayan mountain weather and enable climbers to rest in relative comfort.
Sleeping Bags
During the summit stages of the expedition, the team will use the Multimat® self-inflating summit mat. To reduce the weight of this particular mat, it has a tapered thickness profile from 38mm at the ‘torso area’ of the mat to 25mm at the leg area. It has an excellent tog value of 7.8 and a specific “warm zone” built in. It also possesses a super fast inflation/deflation valve, which performs three times faster than competitor products. In addition, the fleece lined stuff sack can be used as a luxury pillowcase. All this ensures optimum protection and comfort in extreme conditions.
Oxygen systems
SP07 will be using the most efficient supplementary oxygen system available on the market. It is designed by Summit Oxygen Ltd. Warrant Officer (Class Two) Neil Greenwood of the Royal Engineers, now retired, a mountaineering enthusiast who has considerable experience with diving tank systems. He has designed systems to overcome the physical and logistical problems associated with using supplementary oxygen for high altitude activities such as mountaineering and aviation. It detects the negative pressure created as a person inhales. This pressure signal travels through the facemask to a pressure sensor in the Pulse Dose Conserver. A circuit then opens a valve to deliver a precisely metered dose of oxygen. When the valve is closed, the sensor is ready to detect the next inhalation. A breathing tube which fits neatly under the nostrils allows the user to eat, drink, communicate and have an improved field of vision. When field-tested on the Royal Navy Royal Marines Everest North Ridge Expedition 2003 it proved extremely popular. For 23 hours only a single three litre cylinder was required. Normally this would have required three to five cylinders of the same size!
Stove/Gas
It is essential that climbers stay hydrated at altitude to try and minimise the potential onset of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) or the more serious condition of High Altitude Pulmonary or Cerebral Edema (HAPE or HACE). In order to achieve this, a reliable and durable cooking system will be used on the mountain that will utilise an effective butane/propane gas mixture. This will enable team members to eat hot food and, more importantly, melt enough snow to stay hydrated. A point to note is that the temperature of boiling water decreases with the increase in altitude and at the same time takes a lot longer to reach its boiling point.
Wind Suit
A lightweight all-in-one suit made from Pertex, a windproof, breathable fabric protects against the severe wind that will be encountered on a daily basis. A key piece of clothing that is comfortable and practical for climbing; it will be worn over the top of thermal/fleece or down clothing.
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